MIDTOWN is mad about cows. No, not the artsy, Fiberglas heifers grazing amongst high-rise buildings, but the juicy, mouthwatering variety served-up on plates in Gotham steakhouses.
After a decade in the doldrums, eateries that cater to carnivores are making a big comeback.
Due to a strong economy, the high-protein diet fad and, to some degree, the perception that red meat isn’t that bad for you, steakhouses have become the fastest growing segment of the restaurant industry.
In order to find out what all the mooing is about, The Post loaded up our plates at the top-rated Midtown steak joints in an effort to uncover the best meat in Metropolis.
Our ratings are subjective – but that’s OK. What makes a tasty steak tasty is totally subjective.
Post restaurant critic Steve Cuozzo puts it succinctly: “It should be dry-aged and well marbled – end of story.”
With few exceptions, dry aging is the norm for steak places.
Dry-aged beef is stored uncovered for weeks in a refrigerated locker. It’s exposure to air causes the flavor to concentrate while the muscle fibers break down.
Conversely, wet-aged beef (found at Ruth’s Mortons and Palm) is stored in vacuum-sealed packs for up to a month. It has the same type of fiber breakdown but doesn’t develop the stronger dry-aged taste.
Ruth Reichl, the editor of Gourmet magazine and the former New York Times restaurant critic, agrees with Cuozzo that the most important thing is the cut of meat.
“In the end, the thing about a great piece of meat is when you hit it, you know it.” she says.
“A lot of it is visual. When you cut into it, you can see the texture.”
But most of us only try to control how the meat is cooked.
“I like mine really charred on the outside and very rare inside,” Reichl says. “The question is ‘Can the grill people turn up the heat high enough to cook it properly?'”
It’s an art that’s not as easy as it seems. Chefs must be experienced, highly trained and equipped with the proper tools.
During our visit to Ruth’s Chris Steak House, the steak arrived at the table still sizzling – the taster actually got splattered by bubbling butter as he took a whiff.
Unfortunately, the meat continued to cook itself from optimal medium-rare to the medium category.
In our taste test, the dry-aged sirlion cuts took the top three spots.
Prices only varied from $29.95 to $33.95 – but taste wavered significantly. The winner was Sparks, which is probably best known for being where mob boss Paul Castellano was assassinated as he arrived for dinner.
It’s clear Castellano missed out on a great last meal.
CHART
MIDTOWN MEAT: THE BEST OF THE BEST
Out of four steak knives
3½ knives — Sparks Steak House, 210 E. 46th St. (212) 687-4855
Taste: Like butter, juicy, wonderfully seasoned. No steak sauce needed.
Texture: Thick and richly marbled.
Presentation: Perfectly charred outside, perfectly red inside
Price: $32
3 knives — Frankie & Johnnie’s, 269 W. 45th St., (212) 997-9494
Taste: Robust with light seasoning. No steak sauce needed.
Texture: Well-marbled cut with bone
Presentation: Perfectly cooked/charred
Price: $29.95
3 knives — Smith & Wollensky, 797 Third Ave., at 49th Street, (212) 753-1530
Taste: Fresh, unseasoned, smooth fatty flavor. Steak sauce optional.
Texture: Marbled, with some gristle
Presentation: Perfectly charred
Price: $31.95
2½ knives — Mortons of Chicago, 551 Fifth Ave., at 45th St.
(212) 972-3315
Taste: Tender and fresh, with minimal gristle. Steak sauce optional.
Texture: Nicely marbled
Presentation: Less charred, good red center
price: $32
2½ knives — Michael Jordan’s, The Steak House, Grand Central Terminal (212) 655-3300
Taste: Nicely seasoned. Fresh tasting, with moderate gristle
Texture: Marbled
Presentation: Perfectly charred. Slightly overcooked
Price: $29.95
2 knives — Ben Benson’s, 123 W. 52nd St. (212) 581-8888
Taste: Fresh, marbled, overcooked to medium. Steak sauce optional
Texture: Marbled, with gristle
Presentation: Perfectly charred
Price: $33.95
2 knives — Palm West, 250 W. 50th St. (212) 333-7256
Taste: Bland, overcooked. Steak Sauce recommended.
Texture: Marbled, but gristly.
Presentation: Charred slightly
Price: $32
2 knives — Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 148 W. 51st St. (212) 245-9600
Taste: Buttery and slightly seasoned and overcooked
Texture: Less marble
Presentation: Sizzling brown
Price: $32
1 knife — Gallagher’s Steak House, 228 W. 52nd St., (212) 245-5336
Taste: Tough and gristly
Texture: Little marbling
Presentation: Bone-in
Price: $32.75
