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On Bedford Avenue, a bridge-and-tunneller is anyone who lives in Manhattan, not off it.

Every night of the week, well-heeled professionals travel out from the island to rub shoulders with the Brooklyn residents – a tempting melange of artists, musicians, freelancers, freeloaders and trend-setters – in Bedford’s bars, boutiques and restaurants.

It’s not hard to see why they come. Stepping off the L train on the corner of Bedford Avenue and North Seventh Street, you’re presented with an embarrassment of riches.

Head southwest, and the first bar you’ll encounter is the unpretentious Greenpoint Tavern (at 188 Bedford Ave.), known as the GPT to its fans. Across the road is the L Café (#189) which, like many venues in Brooklyn, boasts an extensive garden where smoking is positively encouraged.

The blintzes at the S&B Restaurant (#194) are a reminder of the area’s Polish heritage, while Lawanna’s (#196) represents the neighborhood’s new direction: it’s a rock ‘n’ roll fashion boutique stacked to the roof with “No Sleep Till Brooklyn” T-shirts, Vision Streetwear boots and slip-on Old Skool Vans.

Skip the too-cool-for-school Gray Parrot Café (#212), a divey sandwich bar with snooty staff, in favor of the Rain Lounge (#216) next door. It’s great on Sunday nights, when owner Bobby takes over the show.

Earwax (#218) is the place to check out what music the Williamsburg masses are currently tuning into, while the scruffy Clovis Press (#229), opposite the music spot, stocks an esoteric collection of ‘zines and other esoteric reading matter.

As you head south towards the Williamsburg Bridge, make sure you check out Minimarket (#220) which holds an amazing array of stores – everything from yoga to Tibetan rugs to cheese is covered – and stop to collect your thoughts at the Verb Café next door (#216).

As you cross North Fourth Street, you’re getting into the more Latino end of the neighborhood. Yabby’s (#265) has a legendary 120 seat terrace which is transformed into a sea of trucker hats every Friday night. Bonita (#338) is an awesome Mexican, run by the same people who own the legendary Diner, well worth the walk to the corner of Berry and Broadway. Make sure you try the grilled cheese.

If you are a reverse bridge-and-tunneller, you’ll probably be needing the number for Northside Cars (#207, [718] 387-2222) to get yourself home.

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