WEST Coast foodies will soon have another reason to envy New York: Thomas Keller plans to close his famed French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., Jan. 1 to concentrate on his New York eatery, slated to open at the AOL Time Warner Center in February.

Just when the French Laundry, considered one of the best restaurants in the world, will reopen has yet to be determined. (It’s using the time to update its cellar and menu, sources say.)

“It’s just an opportunity to get two things done at once,” Keller told Wine Spectator magazine.

The return to New York will also be a homecoming for the chef, whose résumé from 1984 to 1990 includes stints at La Reserve, Restaurant Raphael and his own Rakel restaurant downtown.

* Chef Mathew Tivy has teamed with restaurateur Alain Chevreux to open Metro Diet in September. The café and retail store at 141 E. 56th St. will offer menu plans based on the principles of the Zone Diet.

* Cynthia Sestito -an executive chef and Jay Z’s personal chef for the past five years – has really been hopping. For the past two months, she’s traveled between Manhattan’s 40/40 and Salt in the Hamptons, and taken private jets for overnight flights to feed the touring rapper and his crew.

* Wanna get wild ? Petrossian is holding a Wild Salmon Fest through next week. A-fish-ianados can try a variety of the pink denizens of the deep, including a six-course menu for $65.

* Wining & Dining: Derek Jeter at Pampano for a late-night dinner with his trainer. The Yankee ate six lobster tacos and a steak with mashed potatoes.

* If you’ve ever wanted to check out the Gourmet test kichens in the Condé Nast Building, now’s your chance. Oct. 24-26, participants will learn techniques from chefs including Daniel Boulud, Rocco DiSpirito, Eric Ripert and Marcus Samuelsson. The $995 ticket includes a gala at the Rainbow Room, a two-day schedule of demonstrations, wine tastings and seminars, and a dinner at a New York restaurant.

For more info, go to http://www.gourmetinstitute.com.