PERBACCO []

234 E. FOURTH ST. BETWEEN AVES. A AND B (212) 253-2038

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PERBACCO is an old Italian expression meaning, “It’s Bacchus’ fault.”

“It’s kind of a polite swear to the god of wine. If you get drunk, you know, ‘per Bacco,'” explains owner Pierluigi Palazzo, who opened his rustic East Village wine bar with chef Luca Brugnoli a few weeks ago.

Palazzo, who also owns nearby Gnocco, is trying something different this time: tapas-size portions of regional specialties with matching Italian wines.

The place doesn’t take reservations or credit cards, but it’s worth the hassle. Brick walls, wide-plank floors and sweet service add up to a cozy respite.

At dinner, a menu of specials offers more substantial dishes such as sensuous bites of tender ravioli plumped with mascarpone and walnuts in butter and sage sauce ($10.95). Healthy sautéed cod atop fennel, carrots and celery is bland by comparison ($13.95). But it’s hard to resist a culinary trip from the menu of small plates.

Arancini, Sicilian rice balls, have light crusts, peas and mozzarella in bright, chunky tomato sauce ($4.95). Plainer golden risotto cakes hail from Milan ($4.95).

Protein comes from the Abruzzo region as skewers of chewy charred lamb and a side of salad ($4.95). Springy little meatballs are set off nicely by a simple, fresh tomato-basil sauce ($3.95), as is a flavorful ramekin of eggplant with melting strings of mozzarella ($3.95).

Don’t pass by Liguria and its ambrosial warm octopus tossed with soft potato cubes, bright olive slivers and pesto ($5.45).

Last stop: pear and chocolate soufflé with mascarpone sauce is worth a diet detour ($5.95).

The place is open daily, from breakfast – panini and cappuccino – to past midnight. And if you don’t have a good time, it’s your own fault.