THAT LITTLE CAFÉ

(three stars)

147 E. HOUSTON ST. (BETWEEN ELDRIDGE AND FORSYTH)

(212) 475-5303

JUST a skip from the Sunshine Cinema, That Little Café has a cheery identity of its own.

The yellow-walled Lower East Side spot has a colorful tile floor underfoot, five small mosaic tables and a warm staff dishing out an eclectic mix of salads, sandwiches, breakfast items and daily specials from morning till night. And this will make you smile: Except for some specials, it’s all under $10.

Run by Dishful Caterers, the Israeli and Brazilian chefs keep things interesting by making to order smartly composed dishes utilizing top-notch ingredients.

Healthy Salad is a refreshing mix of greens with feta cheese, green olives and roasted red pepper. Prosciutto salad pairs peppery arugula with satiny ham slices, sweet, juicy portobellos and a shower of Parmesan shavings.

It was clear why the young-lawyer type at the next table used a knife and fork on his curried chicken sandwich when I tackled a messy but delicious Tunisian one of lemony tuna studded with cucumber on crusty bread just sturdy enough to hold up to the soppy oil.

A Middle Eastern platter had outstanding fennel-crusted feta and spicy pita chips, but I wondered where the main ingredient went in the slow-simmered tomato and eggplant salad.

From the blackboard specials, mildly spiced fish tacos welcomed the crunch of cucumber and onion salsa. And penne rigate with cauliflower showed its sweet side with caramelized onions and currants under browned crumbs.

They make a great potato frittata, too – light yet rich.

For dessert, there are beautiful fruits and Ceci-Cela pastries. And from the homemade beverage selection, don’t miss the soothing ginger beer.

The café may be little, but the tastes are big.