SANTA Julia Vineyards, a foreward-thinking, family-run winery in Argentina, makes two Chardonnays in opposing styles. One, the Santa Julia Chardonnay Reserva 1999 ($10), fits the New World profile of lots of oaky flavors combined with a vanilla effect that comes across as almost sweet. It’s not generally a style I like, but these guys pull it off so the wood doesn’t choke out the rest of the flavors, which go toward honey and lemon. But the real winner here is the Santa Julia Chardonnay 2000 ($7), which is made in stainless steel tanks and never touches a wood barrel. It’s very Old World – clean, crisp and stony, brightly acidic, and better than a lot of white Burgundy at three or four times the price.