Now that the opening crowds have moved on, you can survey the 2004 Whitney Biennial exhibition in relative peace. The ever-controversial collection of works from contemporary artists offers plenty to talk about over a bite later at one of these nearby restaurants.

Kai

822 Madison Ave.

(between 68th and 69th streets)

(212) 988-7277

Upstairs from the luxe Japanese tea emporium Ito En is this elegant Zen retreat specializing in kaiseki, creative little plates of Japanese haute cuisine.

Via Quadronno

25 E. 73rd St.

(between Fifth and Madison avenues)

(212) 650-9880

An array of perfect Italian sandwiches are the big draw at this polished, lively paninoteca modeled after the Milan original.

Atlantic Grill

1341 Third Ave.

(between 76th and 77th streets)

(212) 988-9200

Be sure to reserve ahead; although it’s big, it’s invariably hopping with dinner diners at this seafood link in restaurateur Stephen Hanson’s chain.

Pearson’s Texas BBQ

170 E. 81st St.

(between Lexington & Third avenues)

(212) 288-2700

Pitmaster Robert Pearson has the Upper East Side smokin’ with slow-cooked ribs, brisket and North Carolina-style pork in his joint with Formica tables and leather banquettes.

Serafina

1022 Madison Ave.

(at 79th Street)

(212) 734-2676

This perennially popular trattoria turns out great thin-crust pizzas, pastas, and simply grilled meat and fish in a bustling second-floor room or on the rooftop terrace.