CONSPICUOUSLY absent from the first tasting of France’s 2002 wines is American Robert Parker, arguably the world’s most influential wine critic, who will not make the trip to Bordeaux for the first time in 20 years.

“It’s a total catastrophe for many winemakers,” said a leading wine merchant in St. Emilion. “They depend on Parker as their only form of marketing. He is the pope in this community.”

Parker, who did not return a call for comment, has cited fear of terrorism as his reason for not making the pilgrimage from his Pennsylvania home to the wine region for the spring tasting.

Due to anti-French sentiment and less than stellar-quality grape harvest, many American dealers are choosing not to stockpile supplies of French wine as they have in the past few years.

Anxiety is now being felt in Bordeaux, whose citizens are expressing concern that President Jacques Chirac has finally gone too far in his anti-American stance.

* Frank Valenza – former owner of the Palace, one of New York’s most expensive restaurants, and present owner of pricey Two Two Two on the Upper West Side – has taken on perhaps his biggest challenge: classing up the Mama Sbarro’s at 49th and Broadway.

“It’s different,” he admitted to The Post. “An average check is around $14 to $16.”

That’s quite a change from the $150 he charges for a plate of pasta (with 10 ounces of shaved white truffles) at his other eatery.

Valenza, who was hired as a consultant for the pizza chain, has introduced waiter service and plans to bring in a jazz band on the weekends.

* It’s too bad the old Rat Pack isn’t around (save for Joey Bishop) to check out the 1950s Vegas-style Ocean’s 21 when it opens in early May at 21 W. Ninth St.

Michael Ciccoricco’s social club, set in a brownstone, will feature an Italian-influenced American menu by chef Javier Juca.