THE James Beard Awards drew a stellar crowd worthy of Tinseltown at the Marriott Marquis last Monday. Overheard at the ball:

* Mario Batali, who later threw the after-party at Esca, says he plans to open a restaurant in Astoria, Queens. “I love that area,” he said.

* Jeremiah Tower, looking dapper in velvet monogrammed slippers, moved to New York after selling his acclaimed Stars restaurant in San Francisco. He’s now penning a book dedicated to the Four Seasons restaurant as the eatery that started the upscale food revolution in the U.S.

* Restaurateur Marc Strausman is looking forward to moving Fred’s at Barneys N.Y. from the department store’s subterranean level to the ninth floor. “It’ll be nice to finally have a view,” he says.

* Nobu Matsuhisa, cell phone in hand, huddling then exchanging phone numbers with David Bouley.

* Drew Nieporent and Prohibition owner Michael Trenk are planning to open a lounge somewhere between 30th and 50th streets.

* At Charlie Palmer’s after-party at Metrazur, Tony Fortuna was carrying a large bone with a ribbon around it. It turns out Michael Jordan’s The Steak House sells meatless treats to commuters for $9 to take home to their pooches.

* Finally, Wolfgang Puck’s wife and partner, Barbara Lazaroff, did not deny when asked if Wolf is going to open a restaurant in New York. Stay tuned.