I was a little surprised to see Robert Wagner (and his wife Jill St. John Wagner) call London Sunday Times and Vanity Fair food critic a word that rhymes with “bunt.” Gill savaged the Paris restaurant  L’Ami Louis in a VF review. Wagner fired off a letter in the June issue saying he has been having a great time at the restaurant for more than 50 years and adds, “I Gill telling the thousands of diners who love it that only he knows what’s good? Not only is he wrong, but one feels that Gill’s labial, proctologic, colonic, urinary and suppository reference apply solely to himself rather than to one of the best restaurants anywhere. He is trul a ‘c-u-next-Tuesday.'” Bad taste, R.J. bad taste. Almost as bad as hiring a communist to play your loyal manservant in “Hart to Hart.”