PAMPANO TAQUERIA [ 1/2] (two and one-half stars)

805 THIRD AVE., DOWNSTAIRS FOOD COURT (BETWEEN 49TH & 50TH STREETS); (212) 751-5257

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CHEAP Eats always smiles when big- ticket eateries carve out budget-priced spinoffs.

But Pampano spawn Pampano Taqueria makes us doubly happy.

Not only do they make interesting tacos, something our town could use more of, but it’s also a thrifty option for quality seafood, another commodity not too easily come by.

There’s none of the lovely ambience of owner Placido Domingo’s mother fish – this guppy swims in the briny depths of a subterranean food court.

But the food comes down from chef Richard Sandoval’s kitchen, and that’s a good thing indeed.

Pescado a la talla – adobo marinated red snapper – is a winning combo ($2.50). Rolled in a sturdy-yet-pliant flour tortilla, the shredded fish bound with subtly spiced marinade has just a hint of sting.

The mole saucing chicken con mole ($2) is admirably earthy, savory and moderately spiced tucked in an aromatic corn tortilla.

Camaron – chewy bits of sauteed shrimp – is a hit, folded in a quesadilla with roasted tomato salsa and a generous cushion of soft cheese manchego ($7.50), and even better rolled into a taco with salsa, cilantro, onion and a touch of avocado ($2.50).

The Mexican sandwich called a torta comes in several varieties. The pulled pork ($7), which comes in bollito bread, a flattened grilled roll akin to a kaiser, could have been juicier and with more chili spice ($7), but you can always kick it up with optional habañero sauce.

The only ill-conceived item was a salad of grilled chicken mixed with chopped lettuce, corn and tomato with an off-putting sweetness from mango. You get a lot for $6.50, though.

The service is sweet and the tacos are sized just right for a perfect, if messy snack.

Now for the bad news: It’s only open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Guess you can’t always have the whole enchilada.