Pio Pio

1746 First Ave.

(between 90th & 91st streets)

When El Pollo flew its Upper East Side coop recently, it left in its wake an almost cult-like following devoted to the specialty spicy Peruvian roast chicken.

Now Pio Pio has come to roost in the same location, basting Peruvian-style birds with a tangy marinade road-tested at their two Queens locations. The brown-lacquered chickens come whole ($8) or in half or quarter portions ($4 and $3, respectively).

Take it out or eat in. The snug storefront is a cheerful little spot with blue and yellow dappled walls, candle-topped tables and sangria, pisco, wine and beer.

The smallish menu features a folksy appetizer called salchipapa French fries topped with sliced frankfurters ($4) and tostones pressed to the size of a child’s palm and neatly fried ($3), as well as rice and beans ($3). Get all that plus lettuce and avocado salad and chicken to amply feed two in a $26 combo called the “matador.”

Pio Pio also offers fried calamari and ceviche ($10 each), and a jumbo seafood platter ($26). But we tried the chicken, which shows even more pluck after a plunge in the accompanying fiery, creamy green sauce.