‘THIS is how I’d like my apartment to look,” says my companion as we settle in at the restaurant formerly known as Campo.
A chattering full house suggests others feel equally at home in the newly renovated space now called good — with a small “g.”
The lofty, beamed room — painted warm buttermilk white from its previous sponged blue — is Martha Stewart meets the West Village, with simple metal chandeliers casting a flattering glow, planters of ornamental grass, and a wooden rocking horse and pig. Lively Latin music underscores the animated, stylish crowd.
This unpretentious eatery quickly became a neighborhood favorite when it opened as Campo a year and half ago, offering a novel menu sampling the country fare of North, South and Central America.
But chef-owner Steven Picker sensed it was time for a change.
So now he turned his culinary compass to the U.S., expanding his comfort food options while keeping the pan-American pot simmering.
In keeping with the new name, there are lots of good things to eat here. Not the sort of dishes that knock your socks off with far-out ingredients, but interesting combinations as pared down as the spare new digs.
One appetizer from the Campo days, crispy-coated, juicy fried green tomatoes ($7) remains a winner along with arugula slicked with buttermilk-dressing. (Warning: Let the tomato slices cool down or you could singe your mouth.)
Warm, just-tender grilled calamari ($8) is terrific, too, with its citrusy dressing. Our least favorite starter was panzanella Latina ($7), a mushy bread salad, though the olives and creamy queso-blanco are first-rate.
Grilled salmon ($15) has it all going — healthy, perfectly cooked fish over shredded leeks and Brussels sprouts with luscious butternut squash puree and a sprinkling of walnuts over all for a textural boost.
An appealing “breakfast at night” option of duck-potato hash ($10) has plenty of tasty, shredded bird mixed with the cubed potatoes.
On the down side was a bit of grizzle, plus an egg way beyond “over easy” as requested. Plump fried sweet potato cubes in a paper cone compensated ($4).
Malted-milk-ball ice cream ($4) was not available on either of our visits. A major disappointment. And warm orange donuts ($5), with their dipping cup of hot chocolate, seemed drier than we remembered from Campo.
Still, the food and cocktails, the room, the service, the prices — it’s all remarkably likable. Though I hadn’t been here since Campo first opened, I won’t wait so long to return. After all, one good turn deserves another.
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GOOD
89 GREENWICH AVE. (BETWEEN BANK AND WEST 12TH STREETS); (212) 691-8080
