FROM the “life’s short, eat dessert first” department comes ChikaLicious. Only here sweets aren’t merely appetizers, they’re the whole meal.

The compact East Village dessert bar opened just last week with a novel concept – $12 buys a three-course prix fixe of an amuse (appetizer), choice of entrée and assorted petit fours ($7 more for wine pairings).

It’s tough enough choosing between a colorful “dialogue of fresh fruit puree” with honey parfait and lace crisp or fragrant chocolate baba au rhum with blackberry compote, but even before we glanced at the menu, a delicious distraction arrived in the form of a complementary little square of chocolate and cinnamon semifreddo on a tiny spoon.

Pastry chefs Chika Tillman and Donna Ryan met at Bid, Sotheby’s now-closed restaurant, where they whipped up high-end confections.

“We’d like to provide that same level of dessert, but you don’t have to pay $250 to get it,” explains Tom Tillman, Chika’s husband and the 20-seat eatery’s general manager.

They also wanted their place to be sushi bar-style, so diners can see their treats being built before their eyes. The effect is a quick study in dessert design, with beautiful yet light results.

“We’re just trying to make it satisfying, not outrageously filling,” says Tom, adding that the space will remain spare and white because “we want the food to be the art.”

That worked for us in a refreshingly vibrant amuse of cubed mango and heady purple basil sorbet followed by a pristine presentation of mousselike fromage blanc island “cheesecake” afloat in fresh cream atop a big bowl of crushed ice.

Among the three petit fours bringing it to a conclusion was wiggly cherry-topped cola gelee.

It’s very sophisticated yet fun. And don’t be surprised when customers ask permission to lick their plates.

ChikaLicious, 203 E. 10th St. (between First and Second avenues); (212) 995-9511.

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