MAN-o-Manischewitz. A lot of ink has been spilled over the last few years to say how good kosher wine has become. It’s not your bubi’s Mogen David, that sort of thing.

Unfortunately, that’s only half the story. Or, according to my calculations, about one tenth of the story. That seems to be the ratio of good kosher wine to wines that, in the spirit of the holiday, you’d do just as well to pass over.

Taking advantage of the demand for kosher wine that doesn’t taste like Smuckers, importers seem willing to bring in just about anything. Did someone say plague?

So, buyer beware. Matzo ball soup, brisket or chicken, here are a few kosher wines you can serve your family and friends without feeling guilty.

* Tierra Salvaje Cabernet Sauvignon Yecla 2001 ($9). A full-bodied, earthy Spanish red.

* Baron Herzog Cabernet Sauvignon California 2000 ($12). Well made from the kings of kosher in America. A dependable name.

* Herzog Special Edition Warnecke Vineyard Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($60). A premier bottling with grapes from a top vineyard.

* Chateau Malmaison Medoc 2000 ($35). A good, predominantly cabernet Bordeaux from a super vintage.

* Chateau Leoville Poyferre Saint Julien 2000 ($150). Yes, it’s good, but at that price, it better be. For Passover 2010.

* Segal’s Special Reserve Chardonnay Galilee Heights 2000 ($12). A clean, not oaky white from Israel.

* Carmel Moscato di Carmel 2002 ($7). A breezy, not too sweet peachy-lemony Israeli spritzer that makes a good apertif but could go with chicken too. This also makes a good summer picnic wine.