MOST people think of vermouth as something in a bottle to be waved at a dry martini – not too close, mind you.

But on hot, muggy summer nights, this underappreciated aromatic wine comes into its own in a variety of icy, refreshing drinks.

Vermouth is white wine steeped with herbs, plants, flowers, tree bark and fruit peels until it takes on a mix of aromas and flavors.

It comes in two main types: Italian (sweet) vermouth is dark in color and used to make Manhattans, while the paler French (dry) vermouth is combined with gin or vodka in a martini.

But there’s also a little-noticed Italian vermouth called bianco which is as pale as the French version, but sweeter and refreshingly full of citrus flavors.

Fill a 12-ounce glass with ice, pour in about 4 ounces of bianco, squeeze in half a lemon and top off with seltzer.

There’s no name for this drink that I know of, but you can call it an A/C because of the way it reduces the temperature.

Cinzano makes an excellent bianco, while Martini & Rossi produces a slightly lighter one.

Another top-notch summer drink is the Diplomat, made from equal parts French and Italian vermouths plus a couple of dashes of maraschino, a cherry liqueur.

It’s only improved if the Italian delegation is represented by bianco, in which case you can add a twist of lemon.

Noilly Prat is a superior French vermouth and Cinzano makes a good traditional Italian.

All vermouths are sold widely for about $10 for a 750-ml. bottle.