BAO NOODLES [] (three stars)

391 SECOND AVE. (BETWEEN 22ND AND 23RD STREETS) (212) 725-7770

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AT Bao Noodles, noodles aren’t the half of it. The new, cash-only eatery from the folks behind Alphabet City’s Bao 111 also dishes out an intriguing array of traditional plates, not to mention corralling regional selections into $20 family meals.

The place buzzes at dinner with a thumping soundtrack and a no-reservation policy that leaves patrons lined up waiting for one of the monastic wooden benches.

Patience is rewarded with crackling-crisp meat spring rolls licked with citrus dip ($5) and grilled eggplant salad ($7) that tastes better than its grayish mush indicates.

Bright and juicy papaya salad dotted with mint and halved shrimp ($7) prompted one of our group to say she’d be happy with just that and a neat salad of seared flank steak, marinated red pepper and sesame-glazed arugula ($7).

Shredded papaya also kick-starts a seafood-focused Mekong-style dinner ($20) of sweet and sour soup, sautéed bean sprouts and caramelized clay-pot fish in an unctuous broth sweetly reminiscent of the coconut juice gilding soft, fatty chunks of pork belly ($9).

Fat is also the enabler for baby-tender beef in a spicy stew ($10).

Grilled pork slices atop rice vermicelli ($8) were surprisingly tough and tasteless. Broth of oxtail pho lacked dimension, while tapioca noodle soup had just one peppery note (both $7).

All in all, though, you get quite a bang for your buck at Bao.

A liquor license is on the way, with “special cocktails” already listed on the menu. That Night Train to Sapa – Captain Morgan, sake, honey and ginger – sounds like one bumpy ride.