TONY LUKE’S

½ (two and a half stars)

576 NINTH AVE. (BETWEEN 41ST & 42ND) (212) 967-3055

DON’T expect loads of ambiance with Tony Luke’s Old Philly Style Sandwiches. The City of Brotherly Love spinoff has a bare-bones look closer to a check-cashing joint than a fast-fooder.

They must have blown their decorating budget on the marble counters that line the walls. The harsh yellow lighting gives everyone dining there – policemen, bicycle messengers, giggly girlfriends – an unnatural glow ranging from jaundiced to green.

They’ve also managed to “bring the outside in,” so to speak, with sidewalk-like squares of cement underfoot, and a front door that hovers at not-quite shut.

As my fellow scout put it: “Not a great date place.”

But it is a decent sandwich place, especially if Roast Pork Italian rings your lunch bell. The more famous Philadelphia specialty – cheese steak – takes a back seat to this two-fisted construction of lean, thin-sliced pork piled high with broccoli rabe and provolone ($7.35) on a golden hero roll.

That first salty bite of meat and vegetable morphs into a spicy tingle, with crumbled bits of sharp or mild cheese adding a pungent punch. Fans of garlicky greens can get the sandwich minus meat and cheese, so delicious is the non-bitter broccoli rabe ($4.90).

Cheese steak hits the mark, too, with tender, tasty beef, Cheez Whiz that stays its ground and crunchy, sweet fried onion on a 9-inch torpedo ($6.25). Chicken parmesan, a cutlet pounded to even thickness and lightly breaded, is grease-free under a slather of tart tomato sauce and provolone ($6.75).

And though plain fries proved rubbery on one visit, spicy basil and oregano-seasoned Italian fries were addictively crusty outside, fluffy within.

Eat them there, if you want: The friendly staff will happily keep a to-go sandwich warm while you do.