The great escapes
THE HIKING ADVENTURE
Heading up the trail at Overlook Mountain in Woodstock, you may think you’re in for a pleasant five-mile hike. But as you near the summit, you’ll find the vast, crumbling skeleton of a once-luxurious resort: the Overlook Mountain House. That it shares its name with the hotel in “The Shining” is apt; these are deliciously creepy ruins. Built in 1833, the getaway was repeatedly ravaged by fires, and eventually abandoned. The owners’ loss is a hiker’s gain. The trailhead is on Mead Mountain Road in Woodstock, across from the Karma Triyana
Dharmachakra Buddhist monastery.
STAY HERE: Just off Route 28, you’ll find the well-appointed red cottages and motel of the Phoenicia Lodge (5987 Route 28, Phoenicia; 845-688-7772; phoenicialodge.com). A bonfire pit and hammock in the center of the semicircle of cabins give the place a bit of a camping feel. Lodgers hang out on their porches, while kids and dogs run around. When we visited, our neighbors had been there before and planned on coming back soon — a good sign! Rates: Motel rooms are $70 a night, cabins $120 and up.
REFUEL HERE: Sweet Sue’s (49 Main St., Phoenicia; 845-688-7852) is not only the best place in Phoenicia for brunch, it may have the best pancakes we’ve had, period. Try a stack of the Blue Monkeys ($8.95), with blueberries and bananas, and go for the real maple syrup ($1.50). Just bring a hearty appetite, because these babies are huge.
Also tasty: roasting complimentary marshmallows in the fire pit at nearby Peekamoose Restaurant (8373 Route 28, Big Indian; 845-254-6500). First grab a local brew (Ommegang’s Hennepin Ale, $6.50, is a good one) at the cozy bar,.
INSIDER TIP: Aching from your Overlook jaunt? Pick up aspirin at the rather retro Phoenicia Pharmacy (41 Main St.; 845-688-2215), on the town’s short main drag.
THE ADVENTURE: A FUNKY VINTAGE SHOPPING TOUR
Treasures abound in the Catskills. Beginning at Woodstock’s Castaways (36 Mill Hill Road; 845-679-3459), we stumbled across a fabulous vintage mink jacket for a mere $100. In Boiceville, don’t miss Steve Heller’s Fabulous Furniture (845-750-3035) — just look for the sci-fi sculptures he’s created from salvaged ’50s Cadillacs. It’s far out — as are his fanciful woodworks embellished with tail fins and other roadside relics. In Phoenicia, you’ll find the Mystery Spot (72 Main St.; 845-688-7868), run by photographer and artist Laura Levine, whose work has been shown at MoMA. Her “shrine to clutter” offers nonstop spectacle — from creepy dolls to pulp paperbacks to gallery prints of Levine’s photography, including one of Björk in the buff save for a few strategically placed leaves. Music buffs will especially dig the record room. Finally, work your way to the 768 Main cafe and antiques shop in Margaretville (768 Main St.; 845-586-6166).
STAY HERE: Hole up at Kate’s Lazy Meadow, a delightfully kitschy motel run by Kate Pierson of the B-52s (5191 Route 28, Mount Tremper; 845-688-7200). Think pink kitchens and a gnome-themed room. Just don’t plan to see Pierson, though a manager is on call. Rates start at $175.
REFUEL HERE: If the mere mention of Frito pie ($6), pulled-pork sandwiches ($6) and dry-rubbed spare ribs ($24 for a full rack) sets you drooling, stop by Cha Cha Hut BBQ in Arkville (43311 Route 28; 845-586-6100). But your weekend’s not over until you check in for an al fresco creekside brunch at Bear Cafe in Woodstock (295 Tinker St.; 845-679-5555).
INSIDER TIPS: Down the road from Kate’s is Emerson Kaleidoscope inside an old barn silo, billed as the world’s largest. The trippy show is a fun goof-off for $5 — and best viewed while lying on the floor (5340 Route 28, Mount Tremper; 877-688-2828).
THE ADVENTURE: DETOX TO RETOX
Make Haven Spa (6464 Montgomery St.; 845-876-7369, havenrhinebeck.com) your first stop in Rhinebeck, a town with only one traffic light. Housed in a converted 19th-century building, the bilevel spa specializes in body treatments such as its salt scrub ($80 for 45 minutes) and more luxurious mud scrub ($95 for one hour), which removes dead skin and locks in moisture.
Clinton Vineyards (450 Schultzville Road, Clinton Corners; 845-266-5372; clintonvineyards.com), a one-room winery, makes only one wine from grapes — seyval blanc — but does it well: The result is a crisp, citrus-y white even A-listers such as Chelsea Clinton (no relation) love to sip: She gave out bottles to guests at her wedding. The $10 tasting includes tipples from Clinton’s bubblies and dessert wines.
STAY HERE: Beekman Arms (6387 Mill St.; 845-876-7077, beekmandelamaterinn.com) — the oldest inn in America (built in 1766) — has a storied history: Guests have included George Washington, Benedict Arnold and Alexander Hamilton. FDR gave speeches on the front porch. For more space, head to the Delamater Inn. Prices are comparable here ($125 to $300 per night) to the Beekman’s ($110 to $350), and suites have their own fireplaces and sitting rooms.
REFUEL HERE: A few doors down from Haven Spa is Terrapin Restaurant (6426 Montgomery St.; 845-876-3330, terrapinrestaurant.com), housed in a converted church. Waitresses serve huge platefuls of locally grown and organic bites, many of which are vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free. You can also build your own sandwich and sip a glass of vino from the bistro’s respectable wine list, heavy on California and Hudson Valley varietals.
INSIDER TIP: Cool off at Village Pizza (19 E. Market St., 845-876-9676). We skipped the pizza at this nondescript slice joint on the main strip and went straight for hefty delicious spoonfuls of locally made Jane’s Ice Cream.

