THE timing couldn’t have been better for “Macaroni & Cheese” by Joan Nathan (Villard, $15.95). The just-out soft cover celebrating the quintessential comfort food is bubbling over with recipes by top toques – Wylie Dufresne, Rocco DiSpirito, Katy Sparks and Charlie Palmer, to name a few.

Variations run the gooey gamut from Artie’s Deli Mac and Cheese to Fontina and White Truffle Macaroni by Cafe Boulud’s Andrew Carmellini.

But where, we wonder, is the offering from chef Tom Colicchio’s latest eatery – Craft Macaroni & Cheese?