SUMMER is the perfect time for Sancerre, a dry, crisp white wine that complements most fish dishes.Jean-Claude Baker, owner of the popular bistro Chez Josephine, on West 42nd Street, recommends a Richard Bourgeouis Sancerre, which sells for about $15 a bottle.

If you want to be really chic, add a splash of cassis for a Sancerre kir.

Raymond DelMonte, general manager of Manley’s Wines in Greenwich Village, chooses a Domaine La Perrierre Sancerre, which sells for $14 a bottle.

Another wine that hits the spot on a hot day is rosé.

Its lovely salmon color is the result of a few grape skins that are left in during the pressing.

DelMonte’s favorite: La Poussie, 1999 vintage, a Sancerre-rosé “is reminiscent of ripe strawberries.”

About $24 a bottle, it’s “worth every cent,” he says.

If you’re willing to spend a few bucks more, Domain Ott, 1998, is “the blue-blood of rosés,” says Baker.

It can be had for about $30 a bottle.

For a light red on Bastille Day, both DelMonte and Baker choose Georges du Boeuf Beaujolais-Villages, which sells for $10 a bottle.

“Serve it like the French do – chilled,” says Baker. “That’s the little trick.”

1 ounce vodka

2 ounces pineapple juice

½ ounce Chambord

Pour all into a shaker with ice and shake well. Strain into a martini glass.