That’s somm scandal.
Last week, the Court of Master Sommeliers — the organization that conducts the exam for a master sommelier accreditation, the wine world’s most prestigious honor — yanked the designation from 23 of 24 oenophiles who passed its most recent test. Clues to the wines used during the exam’s notoriously difficult blind-tasting portion were allegedly leaked to test takers.
A “master” title is like an Oscar: The recipient makes twice as much money, has his or her choice of jobs, and enjoys lavish travel paid for by vineyards. But the four-part exam requires years of study, and very few sommeliers earn the MS honor — a mere 274 since the test was first given, in 1969.
One New York wine wizard, who didn’t want to be named, blew off the Court: “It’s mainly a club that nobody cares about, outside a handful of grape geeks.”
Most others said they respected the organization. But scandal, schmandel: Those of us who eat out regularly care less about elite honors than about getting help to choose a bottle while our thirsty friends stare at us impatiently.
While I wouldn’t turn down a master somm’s recommendation, I’d settle for someone who knows what they’re talking about — and doesn’t feel the need to talk my ear off, either.
“A great somm knows when not to share everything they know,” Corkbuzz co-owner and wine director Laura Maniec tells The Post. Maniec, who guides customers through Corkbuzz’s 60 by-the-glass choices and the rotating roster of 300-odd bottles, is one of the city’s very few master sommeliers — and she’s too smart to fall prey to the somm’s greatest weakness, which is speaking gobbledygook to diners.
Emilie Perrier, a manager at Folio Fine Wine Partners and former somm, says she cracks up when she’s at a restaurant and the somm “[starts] to tell me that the vine was south-facing for 20 minutes and then the birds came down and the wine spent 40 minutes in a stainless steel tank.”
I’ve gotten even less relevant “advice” — like the time the somm at BLT Steak pushed an obscure red blend from Provence because the winemaker was a “wonderful woman.”
But perhaps that’s better than the wisdom of an under-trained underling — like the fellow at the Carlyle who jocularly described himself as “chief cook and bottle washer” and strongly recommended a $300 white Margaux that was past its prime.
‘It’s mainly a club that nobody cares about, outside a handful of grape geeks.’
In such an anything-goes scene, who can you trust to recommend a good pour?
While Maniec says her accreditation is “very helpful in helping others learn about wine,” Raj Vaidya, the head somm for all of Daniel Boulud’s Dinex Group restaurants, says he’s been fine without taking the master sommelier tests.
“A master sommelier needs to have a work ethic and drive that enables them to learn a tremendous amount — but a lot of it is of no practical value in a restaurant,” he says.
Le Bernardin’s great Aldo Sohm, who also runs Aldo Sohm Wine Bar next door, is another New York rock-star somm who’s never taken the MS exams. He’s merely been named the best sommelier in the world by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale.
“If you want to order a nice glass of Bordeaux, it has nothing to do with needing a master sommelier,” he says. “We’re here to help people have a great time.”
Hear, hear. I’d rather see a somm’s eyes light up with sheer enthusiasm than listen to a spiel cribbed from Wikipedia.



