The mood was tough but muted at Behnaz Sarafpour – simple little dresses in gunmetal or black, toughened up with grommets or asymmetrical zippers. But her proportions were a bit bipolar – she showed a bunch of ’80s-inspired body-conscious dresses, but then paired a voluminous top with a bubble skirt. There were a few pieces that were stunning – most notably a black silk chiffon skirt with vertical ruffles and a one-shouldered black velvet cocktail dress with a beaded strap. Yet the collection lacked a driving force or raison d’etre; not many of the pieces were memorable, or inspiring, or aspirational even.