The theme from the second day of fall 2012 fashion shows: Opposites attract. For three of the day’s design players, masculine and feminine elements go together like horse and carriage. At Jason Wu, one of Michelle Obama’s go-to favorites, “The season is about mixing stately shapes and couture details on strong warrior women.” Wu drew on iconic Chinese imagery from the Qing Dynasty and some serious muscle. His warrior women stormed the runway in jackets with fur trim, epaulets over pencil skirts, and day dresses in army green and red. It was an impressive military display culminating in a parade of crystal-encrusted eveningwear referencing the 1932 Dietrich flick “Shanghai Express,” made for unleashing your inner empress.
Drag-king icon Marlene Dietrich, along with Katharine Hepburn, was also the reference for the fall collection of Peter Som. The “sultry strong images” of these Hollywood icons were the jumping-off point for a modernized take on suits with razor-sharp pants and strong-shouldered jacket. Wool melton contrasted with hyperfeminine sheer layered skirts and dresses. Of course what becomes a legend most is a patchwork fox, for dramatic entrances and exits.
Beauty burst
HELEN YARMAK
Old Tinseltown glamour meets the groovy ’60s sex kitten at the Helen Yarmak presentation. The designer, known for furs, showcased her luxurious pelts with a heavily lined, smoky eye and dangling deco earrings. But a dramatic beehive (above) gave the look a playful edge.
