Each seat at the Derek Lam show offered a bookmark with “The Library” printed on it. This was the only clue given about the show — and once it began, there was only a little librarian chic mixed with a lot more cool girl sneaking a smoke in the back corner from a bygone era.

The show started strong with floral embroidered leather and satin bomber jackets, boxy tops and skirts. Leather, a major trend for Fall 2012, continued throughout the collection in dresses, pants and even casual pullover-style tops. Beautifully tailored coats and intricate handknit tulle sweaters upped the ante for keeping warm in style next winter.