Forget T-shirts, low-rise jeans and anything emblazoned with the company’s logo – Diesel is going luxe. This according to creative director Wilbert Das and designer of the brand’s new “Black Gold” collection.

Front-rowers Carine Roitfeld, Brittany Murphy, Ryan Adams and a slight and unassuming M.I.A. watched as the brand made its American debut yesterday.

It’s not that they’ve forgotten their bread and butter – perfectly tailored denim in a multitude of washes – but with the company’s 30th anniversary comes the maturing (aging?) of its regular customer. And the older the customer gets, the deeper her pockets.

The new line – luxurious leather, fur and silk – is undeniably a lot more expensive.

There were a few big hits – artfully layered dresses with gold paillettes and mesh overlay, long fingerless lambskin motorcycle gloves and sexy silk open-back boiler suits. But overall the collection seemed scattered and unfocused. While we know where Diesel has been, we’re left feeling that we’re not quite sure where its going.