After seeing so many swaddling layers and generous silhouettes and gauzy gowns – all of which seem to imply that designers think we will want cocoon ourselves and disappear, and what a drag that is – we are seeing some strength and confidence in cut, hemlength, color and fabric. Marc Jacobs initiated it last night, and today Derek Lam vastly improved on his last, very sandy, very pleasant, very boring collection. Lam’s vision for Fall ’07 is a refined, subversive take on new wave and punk (loved the zippers!) while referencing a little bit of Proenza and a little Alaia. Standouts included the wide-shouldered jackets with layered lapels, often worn over the skinniest leather pants tucked into substantial ankle boots. He also played with metallics – the glittering green Grecian minidress was exceptional, as was the floor-length, hooded blue jersey dress with a plunging neckline. Lam is designing for the customer who refuses to greet fall with a defeatist attitude, and anyone else can shrink away.