As the most quintessentially American designer working today, Michael Kors occupies a mantle that is enviable. By default, he leads the pack with whatever he does. And though he doesn’t go out on a limb creatively like, say, Marc Jacobs, he can be counted on to provide a solid collection that is wearable, salable and enjoyable to watch.

Fall 2007 was all about contrasts — sable and cotton, bare and covered, and so on. As we’re seeing on all the major runways, outerwear was a big component of what this designer showed. Voluminous, yet shorter, furs were everywhere, but the best pieces came in the cloth coats. Tweed topcoats, peacoats with gum-ball buttons and admiral’s coats with wide, flat buttons gave lots of updated options. Sweaters were big, particularly the collars. As for the rest, think classic, well-tailored sportswear from the Nan Kempner school (read men’s wear inspired) and you’ve got it.

As with most this season, the full-length gowns were few and far between, but of the little grouping, we’d be surprised if the warm brown beaded assymetrical gown was not at the Oscars. It was that show-stopping.