Wenlan Chai is an artisan of knitwear, turning something as basic a scarf into the building block of an ensemble – something to construct an outfit around, rather than a mere accessory. Her Twinkle line is known for its sense of lightness, but for this fall, her palette was exceedingly muted: lots of grey, in varying shades, shot through with occasional bursts of blue and yellow. Wenlan showed a fantastic sleeveless peacoat (as bizarre as it sounds, it works) and a few gorgeous, almost spring-like prints. As always, her pieces were very pretty and wearable, but on the whole it was a somber affair.