Vivienne Tam
Vivienne Tam was inspired by the “600-year-old Kun Opera” and the costumes the performers wore. While that reference wasn’t immediately apparent to those without knowledge of ancient Chinese opera, it didn’t matter.
The show opened with outerwear, which was outstanding. The covetable coats were a beautiful dark navy tweed, with softly pleated skirts and long-sleeved dresses in the same fabric. They had futuristic Jetsons-style sculptural details that curved around the collar and shoulders. It didn’t overwhelm the silhouette, but was just enough to keep things interesting.
These deceptively simple looks were the strongest, less so were the overly embellished, appliqued, crocheted and fringed dresses and blouses that at times looked cluttered. The evening looks, however, put the embellishments Tam is so fond of to good–and sexy–use. Knockouts included a black embroidery overlaid on a white slip, a beaded low-waisted flapper dress with a long-fringed hem, and a sleeveless, sparkly black dress covered entirely with fringe that swirled enticingly with the model’s every move.
