As women’s designer for Calvin Klein Collection for more than a decade, Francisco Costa has tread a fine line between revealing and concealing skin on runways and red carpets.

In this era of nearly naked event dressing, where suspenders are passed off as a shirt, his brand of subtle exposure looks refreshingly understated.

“To me, it’s all about the right balance of sexuality — too much is too much and too little is too little,” Costa tells Alexa. “I love the way the keyhole necklines in the fall collection show just the right amount of skin in just the right place, but in an unexpected way.”

Costa is referring to the portholes in his sleek leather-and-chenille dress and sleeveless tunic. But he could just as easily have been talking about the pearl-strewn custom Oscar gown he created for Lupita Nyong’o this year, featuring a peekaboo bodice and a swimwear back. (A couture-loving criminal swiped the lustrous dress from a hotel room but returned it two days later, surprised the 6,000 pearls were costume gems.)

The shimmering green slither he whipped up for Kendall Jenner’s last visit to the Met Ball is another example of his tightrope act. The demure high neck was offset by daring open sides, laced together with a thin cord. It made the most of her Kardashian-family curves.

Costa, 51, describes his style as reductionist— not minimalist — because he edits down his pieces without losing complexity.

His fall collection, for instance, was “all about urban eroticism,” with luxurious leather and suede patchwork coats and ponyhair dresses pieced together like mosaics. “We transformed essential sportswear pieces by using parchment leather and shearling that was curled, sheared, embossed, raised or needle punched for effect,” he says. Seen up close, the craftsmanship was intricate; from afar, the shapes were streamlined.

“Francisco designs with the modern woman in mind: clean lines, attention to detail, fresh silhouettes,” says stylist Jeanann Williams, who frequently dresses Naomi Watts in Calvin. “His collections are the perfect combination of simple and chic,” adds Logan Horne, a stylist who works with Leighton Meester.

While people often expect a riot of color from Costa, who is Brazilian, he usually saves his brights for event dresses. The bombshell fuchsia gown Lara Stone posed in at the Cannes Film Festival was practically neon.

“Bold colors are more dynamic and exciting— they pop against the red carpet and also have this amazing ability to really highlight a beautiful skin tone,” says Costa. “That is really what it’s all about. Making women look and feel their best.”

Alexa: Which of your dresses deserves to be stolen next?

Francisco Costa: “The custom jade-green, crystalencrusted dress that Kendall Jenner wore to this year’s Met Gala.”

What’s your Fashion Week vice?

FC: Chocolate!

What’s your hottest accessory for fall?

FC: Our oversize resin-chain sling bag in a chic color like forest green.

Where have you traveled recently that inspired you?

FC: Israel and Jordan.

If you had to recommend one investment piece to love forever, what would it be?

FC: Our patchwork shearling-and-leather coat.

What’s the worst job you’ve ever had?

FC: I once worked as a busboy at a Brazilian restaurant.