Viand Cafe on Madison Avenue at 78th Street has closed. Long live Viand — and viva the surviving coffee shop/diners along the city’s most exalted shopping boulevard.
The six spots on Madison between 59th and 89th — some with the same names — are to be cherished, though hardly for their food. Their booths open to all, they help humanize the cold continuity of high-end fashion boutiques aligned for blocks on end.
They welcome elderly couples who eat at 6 p.m., teen girls laughing about bad dates, sweat-drenched joggers returning from Central Park. You might see Woody Allen enjoying a chocolate egg cream by himself, as he’s been known to do here.
Diners are the great equalizer. There’s glee in chowing down on gooey grilled cheese amid tiny, deprived bodies bound for Nanette Lepore and Warren Tricomi. If Kappo Masa’s $240 fatty tuna roll is too rich, New Amity’s tuna niçoise is just $19.95.
A “seasonal” approach? Not quite — you may have canned corn in any month of the year. Fusion? Sure. Waiters don’t sneer if you order branzino, home fries and a chocolate malt. Why would they, where grapefruits, Guinness, pickles and chocolate cake share a few square feet of shelf space behind the counter? And only diners let you cherry-pick the globe, whether you crave Italian, Mexican, dumplings or wraps (well, maybe not Indian).
How much longer can these endearing anachronisms last? Since 2007, three Madison Avenue diners have closed: the Gardenia, where Joe DiMaggio took many a meal in his waning years, Soup Burg and Viand — a favorite of former Mayor Mike Bloomberg’s, and of Robert B. Parker’s fictional PI, Spenser.
So let’s enjoy the survivors before their leases run out — because we’re going to miss them terribly when they’re gone.
3 Guys
960 Madison Ave., between 75th and 76th streets; 212-628-8108
Brian ZakThe buzzing-est of the 3 Guys minichain, this one draws private-school families, including dads, in Oliver Peoples eyeglasses, who advise kids that the stuff served with pancakes “is not real maple syrup.” (You can get the real thing if you ask.) Scrambled eggs (or egg whites) and thick turkey sausage are swell for breakfast or lunch. They even have a full bar, but don’t ask for anything complicated.
3 Guys
1232 Madison Ave., between 88th and 89th streets; 212-369-3700
The tuna melt at 3 GuysBrian ZakThe only one of the six with second-floor seating and windows over the avenue draws young families and women dressed in Lilly Pulitzer. And the house lets you linger, even if it’s over a single cup of coffee.
Viand
673 Madison Ave., at 61st Street; 212-751-6622
Chicken souvlaki at ViandBrian ZakUnrelated to the other, now shuttered Viand, this tiny luncheonette comes with a string of nos: no booze, no restrooms, no credit cards (cash only). Yet it’s beloved for what it does offer: a taste of a long-gone Manhattan. Like a vision of the 1950s, it has only 16 counter stools and seven tiny booths for two.
New Amity
1134 Madison Ave., between 84th and 85th streets; 212-861-3255
Brian ZakThe coziest of the six, with its sunny sea-and-sailboat mural, mini-chandeliers, and colonnaded row of booths that encourage you to settle in for a long spell. Busiest at lunch on weekends, when locals converge for killer old-school egg creams and seafood fresh from Blue Ribbon Fish.
Nectar Cafe
1022 Madison Ave., at 79th Street; 212-535-4115
Brian ZakThis corner hole-in-the-wall is much smaller than its big brother three blocks north, but it does offer some seating on the sidewalk. It’s best for well-made fountain treats like milkshakes, ice-cream sodas and sundaes.
Nectar of 82nd
1090 Madison Ave., at 82nd Street; 212-772-0916
Brian ZakSunnier than most, thanks to its glassed-in sidewalk cafe, this draws jolly Metropolitan Museum of Art-goers. Excellent basics of the kind you come to these places for, like grilled Swiss cheese-and-tomato on rye toast, cheese oozing out the sides like the horror movie “The Blob.”



