Nearly 11 years into my time living in Manhattan, I doubt I’ll ever eat like a “true” New Yorker.
That’s because, on Wednesday, it dawned on me: New Yorkers have too many rules when it comes to enjoying food.
Mayor Bill de Blasio, who grew up in Massachusetts, surely felt the burn of this truth when he tweeted his bagel order: “Whole wheat. Toasted. Extra cream cheese,” in a since-deleted upload to ring in National Bagel Day.
It wasn’t the whole-wheat part that got New York bagel purists angry, but the fact that Hizzoner simply enjoys his bagels toasted. As The Post reported that day, the traditional way of eating a fresh bagel means avoiding a toaster altogether.
“We bake them here and they’re already hot,” Raul Perez, the assistant manager of de Blasio’s local bagel haunt, Bagel Hole, told The Post.
In fact, in 2015, when Murray’s Bagels in Chelsea reversed its no-toasting policy, there was an uproar.
“If you’re toasting a good bagel, you’re toasting something that’s already warm and crusty — that’s redundant,” wrote Arthur Bovino in the Daily Meal.
They’re fair arguments, but what if I happen to enjoy the crisp bite of a toasted bagel, even when it’s freshly made? At the core of it, I — or anyone, for that matter — should have the basic privilege of eating food the way we like it from the places we enjoy, free from instruction and critique.
But in this city? Fuhgettaboutit. Here are the other food traditions New Yorkers vehemently protect. You’ve been warned.
Pizza
While home for the holidays, I tweeted an image of how people eat pizza in and around my hometown, Utica, NY: folding the thicker crust, then dipping the pizza into blue cheese, Buffalo wing sauce, or both. Not only is it what I’m used to, but it also tastes shockingly good. The blue cheese adds an additional cheese flavor, while the wing sauce gives a nice spice. Though joking, responses from friends quickly rolled in.
“You should be arrested,” said one colleague, while another said she was “very disappointed.”
City pizza purists will all tell you the same thing: Proper pizza should have a thinner crust, no unusual add-ons (God forbid blue cheese or wing sauce, but also pineapple or even kiwi) — and it should never, ever be eaten with a fork and knife. In 2014, de Blasio found himself food-shamed yet again for eating pizza from Staten Island spot Goodfellas with utensils.
“In my ancestral homeland, it is more typical to eat with a fork and knife,” he said, with a nod to Italy — and blaming that method on the number of seemingly drippy toppings. But if you want to hang in New York, it seems like you have to follow this one mantra: “All New Yorkers eat their pizza with their hands,” Goodfellas’ Scot Cosentino told reporters at that time.
Street meat
There are also unspoken rules when it comes to grabbing takeaway food from city Halal carts. If you’re grabbing halal, go with the lamb. Chicken can only be a substitute when you feel stuck in the lamb routine. And the sauce choice is crucial. The general rule is to order both the spicy red sauce and the mayonnaise-based white sauce — but don’t get too much of either. The red sauce can send smoke through your ears (a right of passage for anyone who just moved here), while the white sauce can drown out the other flavors.
Bodega vs. deli
It’s not just eating — New Yorkers will also want you to get the names of establishments straight. Don’t call a deli a bodega, or vice versa, as The Post reported last year. Deli owners will tell you their businesses lean more upscale, with packaged organic foods, a hot/cold salad bar and a more robust selection of meats and cheeses for sandwiches. But those at the helm of bodegas will scoff at that judgment, saying they also prepare meals from scratch and serve as all-in-one stops for anything needed. In reality, the answer depends on whether you see a cat inside. If you do, it’s a bodega. If not, it’s a deli. What else is for certain, these are the better places to grab chopped cheese sandwiches — never at a fancier offshoot.



