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Humble tater tots are no longer just for kids to dunk in ketchup. The deep-fried nuggets of grated potatoes have gone gourmet, with restaurants across the city topping them with everything from Peking duck to fish flakes. Have a look.

Here’s the beef

Brian ZakBrian Zak

“Scrumptious and crave-able,” are how chef Jesse Schenker (nominated for a James Beard Award) describes the brisket tots he serves at his Flatiron District restaurant, the Gander. The meat-and-mozzarella nuggets are served with a pickled apple garnish and Dijon creme fraiche dipping sauce. $13 at the Gander, 15 W. 18th St.; 212-229-9500

Sweet and spicy

Brian ZakBrian Zak

It’s “a well-rounded medley of savory, sweet, spice and crunch,” says Jeff Srole, chef at the new FiDi bar, the Wooly Public, of his Peking duck tots, which come topped with duck confit, Chinese spices, hoisin sauce, scallions and melted cheese. $15 at the Wooly Public, 9 Barclay St.; 212-571-2930

A Vietnamese twist

Brian ZakBrian Zak

Stephan Brezinsky, the chef at Alphabet City Vietnamese restaurant Chao Chao, makes his tots with the starchy root known as taro — “for a bit of whimsy” — and serves them with an umami-rich mayo flavored with fish sauce. $9 at Chao Chao, 171 Avenue A; 212-475-3171

A taste of Japan

Brian ZakBrian Zak

At beloved Brooklyn ramen joint Chuko, the okonomiyaki tots riff on a Japanese street food featuring a savory pancake topped with a sweet-salty sauce, kewpie mayo, scallions and fish flakes. $9 at Chuko, 565 Vanderbilt Ave., Prospect Heights; 347-425-9570

Whipped delight

Brian ZakBrian Zak

The sald cod tater tots at Soho gastropub the Folly combine dried cod, whipped olive oil and potatoes for a Mediterranean take on the classic American side dish. $9 at the Folly, 92 W. Houston St.; 646-726-4740

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