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ROCKAWAY TACO 95-19 Rockaway Beach Blvd., Queens; 347-213-7466 A single-tortilla taco ($3) is loaded with one giant piece of crispy tilapia, green and red cabbage, and a dollop of guacamole on request (which will run things up to $4). Sliced radishes and whole cilantro leaves add color and taste; dress it up even more with one of the free salsas on the counter. Anthony J. Causi

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EMPELLON TAQUERIA 230 W. Fourth St.; 212-367-0999 The Fish Tempura with Cabbage and Lime Mayonnaise tacos (three to an order, $18) are made with dogfish (a kind of shark meat), and julienned green cabbage arrayed on top, along with a few radishes, cilantro and a de rigueur lime wedge. Imogen Brown

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CAFÉ DE LA ESQUINA 225 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn; 718-393-5500 At the new outpost of La Esquina, the fish tacos come as a platter for $14, two to an order and turned into meal with fluffy white rice and black beans. The fish — almost a whole fillet per taco — is lightly browned on the grill and balanced nicely by red onion, cabbage, chipotle mayo and dollop of salsa verde. Eilon Paz

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SNACK DRAGON 164 Orchard St.; no phone The Contented Sole taco ($5) fish taco comes on a blue tortilla, the grilled sole topped with a kicky chipotle-mayo red cabbage slaw, plus the usual radishes and herbs. Astrid Stawiarz

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CHONCHO’S TACOS Saturdays at the Brooklyn Flea in Fort Greene (176 Lafayette Ave.); Sundays at the Brooklyn Flea in Williamsburg (East River Waterfront between North Sixth and Seventh streets) A single, large tortilla acts the base for this taco ($5 each, two for $9) — a buildup of fish, red cabbage and a classic Mexican crema specked with cilantro. A quick squirt of the green salsa at the counter adds a perfect spicy blast. Rebecca Sahn

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TACOMBI AT FONDA NOLITA 267 Elizabeth St.; 917-727-0179 The crispy Ensenada fish taco ($4) sits atop a double-tortilla and comes with a chubby piece of crunchy tilapia, seasoned red cabbage, cilantro sprigs and lime wedges on the side. Gabi Porter

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