Sicilians have been tending grapevines on their mountainous island for millennia, with little outside notice.

But as of late, the region’s proud winemakers (who only received their Sicilia DOC, or “designation of controlled origin,” in 2012) are no longer content making simple table wines or bulk production to send as anonymous filler for other wine regions.

Instead, they’re embracing indigenous, food-friendly grapes — like Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola, Grillo, Catarratto and Frappato — and their vinous beauty in the glass.

Get schooled on Sicily with these four fantastic bottles.

Sambucese’s lovely Grillo grows in Salaparuta in western Sicily, a small, arid grape-growing area that produces beautiful whites like this.

Its pale yellow hue tips you off to the vibrant aromas and flavors of lemon and white grapefruit within, but it also offers pretty notes of beeswax and a satisfying weightiness on the palate.

A lingering, zippy citrus zest finish makes it more versatile than a simple quaffing wine. Sip on it as an aperitif, sure, but don’t be shy about pairing it with everything from rare tuna to pork.

There’s a wonderful freshness to this pretty Nero d’Avola (the most widely planted grape, red or white, in Sicily) that’s easy to love.

It’s wonderfully juicy in your mouth, offering notes of plump blueberries and black plums, just-right soft tannins, and a little bit of baking spice.

At an even-keeled 13% ABV (with a bang-for-your-buck price point), it’s a red you can enjoy for more than one glass before hitting the wall. And you should — with a plate of salumi and cheese or alongside your favorite weeknight pizza.

With vineyards in five regions of Sicily, Planeta has been on the forefront of the island’s wine industry since 1995.

The label’s Frappato, grown in the red sandy soils of Vittoria, is less well known than Sicily’s red calling card, Nero d’Avola, but it deserves your attention.

The nose is all roses and raspberries, with a juicy splash of plum on the palate wrapped in savory flavors of thyme and fennel. It’s light and lovely, but not without a surprising yank of tannic grippiness.

Serve with swordfish, olives and fresh herbs.

Diego and Alberto Cusumano built a reputation on their namesake Nero d’Avola, but it was their dream to open a winery on the volcanic soils of Mount Etna.

Alta Mora is the estate-grown realization of that aspiration, with vineyards stretching 4,000 feet up the mountain.

Their elegant Etna Rosso is 100% Nerello Mascalese. Deep, opaque ruby in color, it offers aromas and flavors of black cherry, eucalyptus and a little snappy, spicy licorice.