Who’s the top dog on Surf Avenue?

Leave me out of arguments over which hot dog came first. I love both Feltman’s and Nathan’s. They stand up for the old wiener values in a town full of pricey, mongrel dogs dolled up with fancy cheese, cabbage, jalapeno — even foie gras. (Feltman’s basic dog is $4.25, Nathan’s $4.35).

They’re also both a lot better than the common street-cart article, which is usually boiled to ­insipid flavorlessness or grilled to cinders.

But — frankly speaking — there are differences.

The grilled, moist, slightly sweet hot dog sports an “old-world, German-style” spice blend more subtle than Nathan’s. The natural lamb casing is pliable enough for a baby to chew. Feltman’s condiments put on a more upscale air despite costing less. There’s a Martin’s-brand potato bun. Sauerkraut is fresh-grilled so it doesn’t turn soggy. Crisp, raw onions are unadorned. Yellow mustard has a nice tang.

Nathan’s hot dogs at the original Surf Avenue location are tons better than the ones I’ve had at franchised outlets around town. The beef delivered a pleasing, garlicky kick that was tastier and sharper than Feltman’s. It came off the griddle moist and juicy. I have no beef with an old-school, wheat flour bun. But paprika sauteé turns ­onions a radioactive-looking orange, and “natural” sheep­skin casing was tough in spots.