Contributing writer Mark Ellwood’s on the prowl in Art City. Of course, his priorities are in order, and the first stop is for gelato.

Every Italian city has its go-to gelateria that claims to be the best in the country – Nico over in Venice’s Dorsoduro, Tre Scalini in Rome. As for Florence, Ice cream-loving hordes have always descended on Vivoli, that age-old standby close to Santa Croce. But apparently, we’ve been conned.

It seems that the man behind Vivoli was sold it several years ago and what’s being served now isn’t made by his legendary hands. Sure, the gelato there is still fine, but there’s an all-English menu of flavors on the wall, which acts as a handy tip-off that something’s not quite right (so, for that matter, do the deer-in-headlights tourists).

To taste the master’s work now, you have instead to hit Gelateria dei Neri, his hole-in-the-wall alternative – all exposed wood beams and Italian-spouting staff – close to the Palazzo Vecchio. There are gooey faves like rice pudding, tangy fruit sorbets (try the mandarin) and even offbeat combos like pistachio- chili-chocolate. Cones start at 1,50 euros.

Vivoli, via Isola delle Stinche 7r, +39 055 292 334

Gelateria dei Neri, via dei Neri 20-22r, +39 055 210 034

— Mark Ellwood