New Orleans took the water, but Mississippi’s Gulf Coast took the wind – just drive down Highway 90 and marvel at the emptiness. Nearly all gone. The good (historic homes), the bad (random Olive Garden) and the ugly (gas stations, one right on the beach).
Rob Mangione
Seriously. Between Pass Christian and downtown Biloxi, you can count exactly one commercial establishment currently open for business (the little mall outside of Biloxi) and two more that will open soon (no kidding – Waffle Houses).
After the spectre that is New Orleans laid waste, it is a relief to breathe in the sea breezes up here, and bask in the hopeful vibe.
Developers are betting on the future, big time: Nearly a dozen, dare-we-say-attractive, Miami Beach-style condo towers are under construction. There are plenty more on the way, judging by the signs on the vacant lots in Gulfport and Biloxi. They all appear to be built like bunkers. On the smaller side, homes are being constructed all over the region, many in the charming style that you find on Florida’s Panhandle (made famous in the Jim Carrey film, The Truman Show.)
The casinos are rebuilding, and it appears that they’re making a push to go upscale. The former Grand casino – now called Island View – is on its way back in downtown Gulfport (absolutely shattered, by the way). Emeril is opening a restaurant there soon. Up the road, the Beau Rivage, the granddaddy of them all, is absolutely packed (try parking on a Friday night). The Hard Rock won’t open until the summer, but it’s looking fine. But more importantly, Mary Mahoney’s, Biloxi’s most famous – and best – restaurant (pictured above), is back. (Never mind that the rest of the historic district is seemingly toast, though it looks like some buildings are bouncing back.)
It’s an odd thing: You’ve got bridges out, neighborhoods laid waste, favorite spots no longer there, but in the end, the area is just as captivating as it always was. That little-bit-Dixie, little-bit-debauched vibe is still very much on tap. Best of all, you can see the light at the end of the tunnel, even if the road through that tunnel is gridlocked with developers rushing to grab cheap land. After a few days in New Orleans, there’s something really comforting about the whole affair.
Gulf Coast CVB [website]
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