In Paris, walking can make you fat.
Case in point: Rue des Martyrs, a sloping corridor that has garnered cult-like status among locals and in-the-know visitors. In fact, it’s inspired two recent books: Adria J. Cimino’s novel “Paris, Rue des Martyrs,” about four characters connecting through the namesake strip, and Elaine Sciolino’s loving nonfiction portrait, “The Only Street In Paris: Life on the Rue des Martyrs.”
What’s the allure? A rare cocktail of old-school character, new-school hipsters and an impressive, still-growing array of shops representing the country’s brightest pastry and confectionary innovators and niche creations.
Here are seven of the most amazing, sugary spots to indulge your sweet tooth.
Popelini
Bernhard WinkelmannThe choux à la crème, aka cream puffs, date back to the 16th century, but this five-year-old shop dazzles with chef Alice Barday’s 21st-century revisions. (The name of the shop is taken from the chou’s Italian inventor.) Perfectly crisp spheres filled with velvety custard, topped with colorful chocolate discs, come in varieties like raspberry rose, salted butter caramel, and, for purists, Madagascar vanilla. “They’re like plated desserts in a couple of bites,” New York pastry innovator Pichet Ong says of the delicacies.
The must-try: The ever-changing chou du jour, a dramatic swirl of whipped cream erupting from its top.
Henri Le Roux
Henri Le RouxFrance’s most celebrated caramelier, Brittany-based Le Roux set up its first Paris storefront in 2011, and it opened on Rue des Martyrs in 2012. Henri Le Roux’s lineup of chewy confections is famously headed up by the C.B.S., a salted butter caramel (caramel au beurre salé) that proved game-changing for confectioners around the world. Other flavors include orange-ginger, hazelnut-coffee and yuzu-matcha tea.
The must-try: Anything and everything C.B.S., including a jar of the luggage-friendly C.B.S. spread.
Sebastian Gaudard
Lawrence FerberRetro-styled with powder blue décor, old-timey glass display cases, and a black-and-white tile floor, Gaudard’s five-year-old shop stocks traditional yet refined pastries that would make Dominique Ansel weep. Look for possibly Paris’ most delectable baba au rhum with vanilla bean-specked whipped cream.
The must-try: The award-winning, sugar-glazed croissant, which straddles the fine line between breakfast and dessert.
Mesdemoiselles Madeleines
©Philippe HUGONNARDThe brainchild of former financial consultant Steve Seremes and pastry whiz Stéphane Bour, this slickly designed, compact space showcases an eye-popping array of flavored, filled and domed new-wave madeleines. Grapefruit-pistachio, hazelnut-tangerine and vanilla-pear with 70 percent dark chocolate are just a few of the many flavors. The more savory-inclined can order the buffalo mozzarella, red onion and olive tapenade delight.
The must-try: The gonzo creation of multiple madeleines, L’Allée d’Hermance, made with lemon-blueberry compote, white chocolate, coconut and chocolate.
Arnaud Delmontel
Maison DelmontelWhile his savory bread has won much acclaim (Paris’ best baguette of 2007!), Delmontel’s patisserie goods are rich, brightly colored, creamy gems indeed. Delmontel’s Tout Chocolat creation — with chocolate mousse, biscuits and cream — is both death and afterlife by cocoa.
The must-try: A macaron, which some consider in league with Ladurée and Fauchon despite being under the radar by comparison.
Glaces Glazed
Caspar MiskinHenri Guittet’s successful ice cream truck spawned this first brick-and-mortar location in 2014. While quirky with his glace and sorbet’s music- and movie-inspired names — e.g. A Clockwork Orange with Campari, orange and balsamic vinegar, The Dude with dulce de leche, and Voodoo Chile with caramelized bananas and curry — Guittet is serious about the provenance of his ingredients and transcendent flavors.
The must-try: Their famed chocolate-wasabi-ginger sorbet, Black Sugar Sex Magic.
La Chambre aux Confitures
La Chambre aux confituresA delectable array of preserves, marmalades, honey and chutneys is the domain of this five-year-old boutique. Dense with fruit, nuts, flowers, roots, herbs and liquors — think marron glace (candied chestnut) spread — these jars are souvenirs waiting to fly home with you. Sampling, by the way, is allowed.
The must-try: Pâte à Tartiner, an addictive hazelnut-rich take on Nutella. It’ll be your, well, jam.



