Second Avenue astride the new Q train route is the city’s sleeper culinary mecca. Its delirious mashup of global tastes rivals Brooklyn’s Smith Street and Jackson Heights’ Roosevelt Avenue, although few outside the neighborhood have a clue.
Second Avenue on the Upper East Side isn’t picturesque. Ten years of subway construction killed off more than a few shops and cafes. Even so, the blocks between East 69th and 96th streets are home to unparalleled ethnic choices — American, Italian, kosher Italian, Brazilian, French, Belgian, Czech, Persian, Indian, Mexican, Thai, Argentine, Turkish, Vietnamese, Japanese, German, Greek, Hungarian, “rustic Latin,” Latin-French, Irish, Spanish, Afghan and Szechuanese — in every price range.

There are classic schnitzels at

Heidelberg

, Thai “hawker” snacks at

Pye Boat Noodle

, spicy pepper chicken wings at sake bar Mei Jin Sakaba, and fiery Chilean sea bass with mysterious “house sauce’’ at

Wa Jeal

.

Lovers of liquid libations head for 1942-vintage

Reif’s Tavern

, super sexy lounge the

Auction House

and the downtown-spirited

Penrose

.

There are great food stores as well: immense Grace’s Marketplace, Sable’s (“World’s Best Smoked Salmon”), butcher shop Leonards’ (“Since 1910”), German sausage factory Schaller & Weber, and a Fairway that chain devotees regard as the best in the city.
The new subway, with stations at East 72nd, 86th and 96th streets (and entrances stretching three blocks south of each), should liberate Second Avenue from obscurity. Enjoy the feast now, before new development reduces it to morsels.

Western, “Big Sky Country” menu includes bison burgers and Montana-sourced trout. Photos of owner Angela Gerdrum’s old family saloon highlight the decor. Starters $7 to $11; most mains $17 to $30. 1750 Second Ave. at 91st Street; 646-912-9507

Brazilian favorites such as feijoada and picadinho are as colorful as the artwork in a friendly dining room set with rustic wooden chairs and tables, just steps off the avenue. Starters, $6.95 to $13.95; mains, $18.95 to $25.95. 305 E. 92nd St.; 212-426-7500

Sweet new Parisian-style bistro with brick walls and turquoise banquettes features chicken roasted sous la brique (below) and “butcher’s choice” classics such as steak au poivre and cÔte de porc. Also open for weekend brunch. Starters $13 to $18; “frogger burger” $19; most other mains $25 to $29. 322 E. 86th St.; 347-537-5786

No Thai menu uptown beats Jaiya’s for authenticity. Larbs, wok-fried platters, curries and whole fish are better than at the original East 20s Jaiya. Sinus-clearing, “volcanic” tom yum (below) — classic lemongrass soup — is served in a butane-fired hot pot and tinted red from imported Thai chili paste. Most prices are under $20. 1553 Second Ave., between 80th and 81st streets; 212-717-8877

Folk music’s on the menu along with Hungarian faves like veal goulash in a narrow, brick-wall dining room behind a gleaming front crepes-and-pastry counter. Apps $6.95​ to $​12.95, mains $17.95​ to ​$20.50.​ ​1631 Second Ave., between 85​th​ and 86th streets; 212-327-1105

Pumpkin walls and white tablecloths identify this 30-year-old Italian favorite that gets better with age. Chef Claudio Meneghini’s menu roams regions from Lombardy to Sicily. Prices are modest for a “luxe” osteria. Apps $15 to $19; pasta $23 to $29; mains $19 to $34. 1494 Second Ave., at 78th Street; 212-249-2020

Full-throttle American bistro menu banishes memories of dreary Elaine’s, which lives on only as a vestibule replica. Comfy dining rooms boast leather booths and, in the rear “library,” miles of books and a fireplace. Starters/salads $12 to $16; pasta and mains $19 to $39. 1703 Second Ave., at 88th street; 212-335-0075

Steve Cuozzo is right on track for a short ride to work on the new Second Avenue line — after picking up a cheese boreka (below) at Café Noi (1465 Second Ave.; 646-476-7137), a few blocks away, at 76th Street.His $4.95 treat is a Turkish phyllo-dough pastry.

Chef Andy D’Amico’s all-beef “Q” Burger​ ($14, below)​, inspired by the nabe’s German-immigrant past​ — and the Q train running along Second Avenue — ​ is topped with pastrami, Gruyere cheese, knackwurst spices and braised sauerkraut on a pretzel bun​. ​1325 Second Ave., at 70th Street; 212-249-0777

Casual spot inside Bohemian National Hall cultural center recalls the nabe’s onetime large Czech population. Expect hearty dishes such as confit duck leg with red cabbage and potato dumplings — and oceans of Pilsner Urquell. Apps $8; mains $15 to $18. 321 E. 73rd St.; 212-861-1038

Spirited Persian cooking in a friendly, cliché-free atmosphere. Don’t miss khoresht stews and ground chicken kubideh (below right). Apps and salads, $8 to $14; mains, $16 to $29. 1407 Second Ave., between 73rd and 74th streets; 212-535-1100

The most comfortable outpost of this Spanish minichain buzzes with a downtown vibe. Modern preparations of classic dishes, from tapas such as gambas al ajillo to larger plates including paella (below), emphasize fresh ingredients. Nearly everything’s under $20 and often big enough to share. 1460 Second Ave., between 76th and 77th streets; 212-343-2227