The best coffee in Brooklyn just got even better.

Cafe Grumpy, which has fomented a coffee revolution from the non-descript corner of Meserole Avenue and Diamond Street, is now roasting its own beans, meaning that the exceptional coffee you’ve been enjoying for years is now so good that you really can taste citrus, blueberry and toffee notes that coffee snobs are always talking about.

Liam Singer (pictured) is manning the roaster, which commands a lofty perch in the back of the Greenpoint store. His job is not to screw up the great beans that come in from farms all over the world.

“I want you to taste the region, not the roast,” he said. “I’m like a referee in football. If you don’t notice him, he’s doing a good job.”

Singer’s house style is a light, slow roast that brings out the attributes of each regions (the Guatamalan beans he roasted the other day ended up in a cup of coffee that was so lively that it leapt out of the mug). Unlike some roasters, he never leaves the beans in the roaster past “second crack,” a moment when the coffee yields its last bit of moisture and becomes too burnt.

Roasting 300 pounds of beans in-house is not just a vanity project. By eliminating the roaster, Cafe Grumpy eliminates thousands of miles that roasted beans travel under murky circumstances.

“Plus, we can roast what we need, when we need it,” Singer said.

Cafe Grumpy [193 Meserole Ave. at Diamond Street in Greenpoint, (718) 349-7623].

—Gersh Kuntzman