The owner of a downtown pizzeria is steamed redder than a ripe tomato over a bad restaurant review and has decided to fight back.

Angered by New York magazine food critic Adam Platt’s review of Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria, Keith McNally, the restaurateur behind Balthazar and Pastis, fired off a missive to the reviewer, calling him “middle-aged,” “bald” and “overweight.”

Saying busy restaurants can’t be good “is no less a form of prejudice than restaurateurs believing that bald, overweight reviewers are incapable of reviewing lively downtown restaurants impartially.”

The reviewer decided to take the high road, writing to The New York Observer yesterday, “He is entitled to his opinion, and I, as a bald, middle-aged and, alas (slightly) overweight professional restaurant critic, am entitled to mine.”